Tips and tricks

Washing machines and dishwashers

Machine has to be moved for use.
If the sink has only two bib taps a threadless tap adaptor can be fitted. These are not ideal as they tend to slide off the tap if the water pressure is high. Alternatively a hose bib tap can be fitted in place of the cold water tap to connect the machine. These are available in both brass and chrome from your hardware store or plumbing supplier. Typically this will be a ½” to ¾” tap.

To fit the tap, turn off the main water supply. Unscrew the existing tap from the socket, roll plumber’s tape clockwise round the supply (½”) threaded end of the tap and screw it into the socket.

Both these options could be rather a nuisance if one needs cold water while the machine is operating. There are, however, two-way taps available from your hardware store.

If the kitchen sink has a mixer tap, a machine can be installed without any plumbing by using a nozzle adaptor which should be available from your nearest hardware store. Unscrew the cap of the mixer nozzle and screw the fitting on to the nozzle in place of the cap. Take care not to cross thread the nozzle as this has a very fine thread. This solution has the disadvantage that the taps cannot be used while the machine is working.

A more permanent solution is to fit a diverter tap and extension piece (available at your nearest hardware store or plumbing supplier). First turn off the main water supply. Unscrew the taps from the offset connectors. Screw the diverter tap onto the cold side of the supply and the extension piece onto the hot supply. Normally no washers or plumber’s tape is needed.

Fixed installation.
A hose bib tap will have to be installed.

If you cannot undo the existing galvanized pipes it is easiest to use an Ee-Zee-Tee. This clamps around the pipe with two 6 mm bolts. An 8 mm hole is drilled in the Tee after which you can change to either copper or pollycop piping, or stay with galvanized pipe.

Pollycop is a plastic pipe and the easiest for the amateur to work with as it requires no specialized tools. A wide variety of Conex fittings can be bought. Conex fittings clamp the pipe with a ferrule and only two spanners, a junior hacksaw, perhaps a tube cutter and a 2nd-cut file have to be used. Cut the pipe to length, de-burr the cut with the file giving the edge a slight chamfer, put the compression nut onto the pipe, slip the ferrule over, insert into the fitting and tighten with a spanner.

Be careful to set the ferrule square onto the fitting. Should you have it skew and damage the ferrule when tightening there is no way you can remove the ferrule without damaging the pipe. A new length of pipe will have to be cut.

Copper piping can be soldered (see: How to solder) or you could use Conex fittings. A very handy pencil torch which uses Butane gas is available. Solid core solder wire and a non-acid flux must be used when soldering copper pipe.

With galvanised pipe, to allow the pipe to run against the wall you will have to use a M/F elbow fitted in to the Ee-Zee-Tee , a nipple, an elbow, a hex nipple and another elbow. All joints must be sealed with plumber’s tape. The ends must be threaded (see: How to cut and thread galvanised pipe).

If the installation is close to a sink a special P-trap can be bought to which the outlet of the machine can be coupled. If you cannot obtain one in your area you can either buy a longer outlet pipe or construct a waste outlet.

If the installation is not near a sink you will have to construct a waste outlet using 50 mm PVC pipe. Make sure that the top of the pipe in which the machine’s outlet will be hooked is at least 70 cm from the ground else a siphoning effect could be experienced.

A P-trap must be fitted. This does not have to be inside the building and if more convenient can be fitted against an outside wall. It would in any event be much easier to service.

Tips and tricks

back to top

When rolling on plumber’s tape always roll clockwise as you look at the opening of the pipe. Pretend the tape has a “sticky” side on the outside of the roll and “stick” the outside to the pipe. This prevents the tape from unrolling out of control.

To cut a pipe square with a saw or knife, cut a small piece of the manufacturer’s end of the pipe, slit this piece lengthways and push over the pipe. Mark against the manufacturer’s side. As most plastic pipe is sold in lengths as requested by the customer there is often no manufacturer’s end. Most piping can be marked with a tube cutter or, for bigger pipes, use a ring squeezer from the motor workshop. One can also cut the bottom out of a canned food tin, slit the can in its length and slide it over the pipe. Press the sides around the pipe and mark the cutting line.